Tree Planting
Proper Tree Planting Techniques
Think of the tree you just purchased as a lifetime investment. How well
your tree, and investment, grows depends on the type of tree and location
you select for planting, the care you provide when the tree is planted,
and follow-up care the tree receives after planting.
Planting the Tree
The ideal time to plant trees and shrubs is during the dormant season—in
the fall after leaf drop or early spring before budbreak. Weather conditions
are cool and allow plants to establish roots in the new location before
spring rains and summer heat stimulate new top growth. However, trees
properly cared for in the nursery or garden center, and given the appropriate
care during transport to prevent damage, can be planted throughout the
growing season. In either situation, proper handling during planting is
essential to ensure a healthy future for new trees and shrubs. Before
you begin planting your tree, be sure you have had all underground utilities
located prior to digging. (Iowa One Call: 1-800-292-8989)
Whether the tree you are planting is balled and burlapped or is bare
root, it is important to understand that its root system has been reduced
by 90 to 95 percent of its original size during transplanting. As a result
of the trauma caused by the digging process, trees commonly exhibit what
is known as transplant shock. Transplant shock is indicated by slow growth
and reduced vigor following transplanting. Proper site preparation before
and during planting coupled with good follow-up care reduces the amount
of time the plant experiences transplant shock and allows the tree to
quickly establish in its new location. Carefully follow eight simple steps,
and you can significantly reduce the stress placed on the plant at the
time of planting.
- Dig a shallow, broad planting hole. Make the hole
wide, as much as three times the diameter of the root ball but only
as deep as the root ball. It is important to make the hole wide because
the roots on the newly establishing tree must push through surrounding
soil in order to establish. On most planting sites in new developments,
the existing soils have been compacted and are unsuitable for healthy
root growth. Breaking up the soil in a large area around the tree provides
the newly emerging roots room to expand into loose soil to hasten establishment.
- Identify the trunk flare. The trunk flare is where
the roots spread at the base of the tree. This point should be partially
visible after the tree has been planted (see diagram). If the trunk
flare is not partially visible, you may have to remove some soil from
the top of the root ball (sometimes up to 12” of soil). Make sure
you find the trunk flare so you can determine how deep the hole needs
to be for proper planting.
- Place the tree at the proper height. Before placing
the tree in the hole, check to see that the hole has been dug to the
proper depth—and no more. The majority of the roots on the newly
planted tree will develop in the top 12 inches of soil. If the tree
is planted too deeply, new roots will have difficulty developing because
of a lack of oxygen. Plant the tree at a depth that allows the base
of the trunk flare to be at ground level. This planting level is shown
in the above diagram. To avoid damage when setting the tree in the hole,
always lift the tree by the root ball and never by the trunk.
- Straighten the tree in the hole. Before you begin
backfilling, have someone view the tree from several directions to confirm
that the tree is straight. Once you begin backfilling, it is difficult
to reposition the tree.
- Fill the hole gently but firmly. Fill the hole about
one-third full and gently but firmly pack the soil around the base of
the root ball. Then, if the tree is balled and burlapped, cut and remove
the string and wire from around the trunk and top third of the root
ball (see diagram). Be careful not to damage the trunk or roots in the
process.
Fill the remainder of the hole, taking care to firmly pack soil to eliminate
air pockets that may cause roots to dry out. To avoid this problem,
add the soil a few inches at a time and settle with water. Continue
this process until the hole is filled and the tree is firmly planted.
It is not recommended to apply fertilizer at the time of planting.
- Stake the tree, if necessary. If the tree is grown
and dug properly at the nursery, staking for support will not be necessary
in most home landscape situations. Studies have shown that trees establish
more quickly and develop stronger trunk and root systems if they are
not staked at the time of planting. However, protective staking may
be required on sites where lawn mower damage, vandalism, or windy conditions
are concerns. If staking is necessary for support, two stakes used in
conjunction with a wide, flexible tie material will hold the tree upright,
provide flexibility, and minimize injury to the trunk (see diagram).
Remove support staking and ties after the first year of growth.
- Mulch the base of the tree. Mulch is simply organic
matter applied to the area at the base of the tree. It acts as a blanket
to hold moisture, it moderates soil temperature extremes (both hot and
cold), and it reduces competition from grass and weeds. Some good choices
are leaf litter, pine straw, shredded bark, peat moss, or wood chips.
A 2- to 4-inch layer is ideal. More than 4 inches may cause a problem
with oxygen and moisture levels. When placing mulch, be sure that the
actual trunk of the tree is not covered. Doing so may cause decay of
the living bark at the base of the tree. A mulch-free area, 1 to 2 inches
wide at the base of the tree, is sufficient to avoid moist bark conditions
and prevent decay.
- Provide follow-up care. Keep the soil moist but
not soaked; overwatering causes leaves to turn yellow or fall off. Give
your new tree the equivalent of an inch of rain each week. If you receive
an inch of rain in a given week, don’t water the tree. If minimal
or no rain has fallen in a given week, water your tree. More frequent
waterings may have to be conducted during extremely hot weather. Continue
until mid-fall, tapering off for lower temperatures that require less-frequent
watering.
Other follow-up care may include minor pruning of branches damaged during
the planting process. Prune sparingly immediately after planting and
wait to begin necessary corrective pruning until after a full season
of growth in the new location.
After you’ve completed these eight simple steps, further routine
care and favorable weather conditions will ensure that your new tree or
shrub will grow and thrive. A valuable asset to any landscape, trees provide
a long-lasting source of beauty and enjoyment for people of all ages.
Much of the information in the above text has been published by the
International Society of Arboriculture as part of its Consumer Information
Program. You may be interested in some of the other titles listed below
from this series of educational brochures at Trees
are Good.Com
- Buying High-Quality Trees
- Proper Mulching Techniques
- Value of Trees
- Tree Selection
- Avoiding Tree and Utility Conflicts
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